Shore power problems fall into two categories: power never makes it into the RV, or power gets in but something inside isn’t working. The fix is completely different for each. Here’s how to figure out which one you’re dealing with.
Step 1: Test the Pedestal
Before assuming your RV has a problem, verify the campground pedestal is actually delivering power. Plug in a simple outlet tester (the $8 ones with three lights) or a lamp into the pedestal outlet directly. If there’s nothing, the problem is at the pedestal — report it to the campground office before diagnosing your rig.
Pro tip: Many campgrounds use GFCI outlets on their pedestals. If a previous camper tripped it, it’ll show no power. Look for a reset button on the pedestal face and press it.
Step 2: Check the Shore Power Plug and Cord
Inspect your 30A or 50A shore power cord and plug carefully. Look for:
- Burnt, melted, or discolored prongs on the plug
- Cracked or damaged cord insulation
- The locking ring not seated properly on a 30A or 50A pedestal
A damaged plug can make intermittent contact or fail entirely. If the prongs look burnt, don’t use it — this is a fire hazard.
Step 3: Check the Main Breaker in Your RV
Open your RV’s breaker panel (main distribution panel, usually near the entrance). Look for the main breaker at the top — it’s usually a large double-pole breaker. If it tripped, it will be in the middle or off position. Reset it firmly: flip it fully off first, then back on.
Step 4: Check Individual Branch Breakers
If the main is on but specific things aren’t working (AC runs but microwave doesn’t), a branch circuit breaker tripped. Go through each breaker and reset any that aren’t fully in the on position.
Caution: If a breaker trips again immediately after resetting, do not keep resetting it. A breaker that keeps tripping is protecting you from a short circuit or overloaded circuit. Call a tech before using that circuit again.
Step 5: Test Voltage at the Shore Power Inlet
With your multimeter set to AC volts and shore power connected, carefully test the voltage at your RV’s shore power inlet. For a 30A connection you should read approximately 120V between the hot and neutral. For 50A you should read about 120V on each hot leg.
Low voltage (below 108V on a 30A system) can cause problems including AC units not starting and converter chargers not functioning at full capacity. Many campgrounds have voltage issues, especially during peak season.
Step 6: Check the Transfer Switch (If You Have a Generator)
If your RV has both shore power and a generator, it likely has an automatic transfer switch (ATS) that selects between them. A failed transfer switch can block shore power from reaching your RV even when everything else is fine. Testing an ATS requires a multimeter and some knowledge of the wiring — this is usually a job for a tech.
Can’t Find the Problem?
Shore power wiring issues can be tricky to trace. Thomas brings diagnostic equipment to your location and can test the full system from pedestal to panel. Serving Saucier MS and up to 1.5 hours around it.
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